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By Steve Nix
Although
cutting down a tree isn't difficult to do, the process can be dangerous.
Before
you fire up the chainsaw, make sure that you've got the right tools for the job
and the proper safety gear.
Before
You Begin
Dress
accordingly, with work pants (made of denim or another tough fabric) and a
long-sleeved shirt to protect your arms and legs from flying debris.
Always
use protective glasses and earplugs. Steel-capped boots and non-slip gloves are
also recommended.
It's
also a good idea to consider a work helmet to protect your head from falling
branches, especially if you're working in a thickly wooded area.
Once
you've got your safety gear on and you've inspected your chainsaw to make sure
it's in good working order, you're ready to get started felling a tree.
Determine
Your Fall Path
Before
you fire up the chainsaw, you'll need to determine the best direction for the
tree to topple and land after you cut it. This is called the fall path.
Visualize
the fall path in all directions and identify points that are free of other
trees.
The
clearer your fall path, the less likely the tree you're cutting will get logged
against other trees or rocks as it comes down.
A
clear path also reduces the chance of the falling tree kicking up debris
(called throwback) that could strike and injure you.
Always
observe the lean of a tree. It is generally easier and safer to fell a tree in
the direction that it is already leaning.
Fell
in a direction that minimizes the chance that the tree will roll or slide.
To
make removal easier, fell the tree so the butt faces the road (or path of
removal).
If
you're clearing several trees, make sure the fall path is consistent with the
felling pattern of the other trees. This also makes for efficient limbing and
removal.
Choose
a Felling Retreat
Once
you've determined the best fall path, you should identify a safe place to stand
as the tree comes down. This is called the felling retreat.
The
direction of safe retreat from a falling tree is at 45 degrees from the sides
and back on either side of your cutting position. Never move away directly
behind the tree.
You
can be seriously hurt if the tree butt kicks back during the fall.
Choose
Where to Cut
To
fell a tree with a chainsaw, you will need to make three cuts, two on the face
and one on the back.
The
face cut, sometimes called a notch cut, comes first. It must be made on the
side of the tree that faces the fall path. There are three types of face cuts:
· Open-faced:
This has a wide notch of about 90 degrees and a back cut even with the notched corner.
This is the safest, most accurate notch for felling a tree.
· Conventional:
This notch has an angled top cut and a flat bottom cut, creating a 45-degree
angle. The back cut should be about 1 inch above the bottom cut.
· Humbolt:
This notch has a flat top cut and an angled bottom cut, creating a 45-degree
angle. The back cut should be about 1 inch above the top cut.
You'll
need to stand to the side of the trunk as you carve the notch cut. Do not stand
in front of the face or you risk serious injury.
If
you're right-handed, make the face cut on the right side of the trunk; if
you're left-handed, notch the face on the left.
Make
the Notch Cut
Begin
by making the top cut of the face notch. Choose a starting point at a height
that allows enough room for the undercut.
Cut
downward at an angle consistent with the type of notch you are making. For
example, if you're using a Humbolt notch, your top cut will be at 90 degrees to
the trunk (this is called the angle of attack).
Stop
when the cut reaches 1/4 to 1/3 of the trunk's diameter or when the cut reaches
80 percent of the tree's diameter at chest level.
Once
you've completed your top cut, the bottom cut is next. Begin at a level that
will create the proper angle as you cut.
For
instance, if you're using the Humbolt notch, your angle of attack should be at
45 degrees to your top cut. Stop when the cut reaches the endpoint of the face
cut.
Making
the Back Cut
The
back cut is made on the opposite side of the notch. It disconnects almost all
of the tree from the stump, creating a hinge that helps to control the tree's
fall.
Begin
on the opposite side of the notch at the same level as the notched corner.
Always
start on the side of the tree and work your way around to the back. This will
help maintain a level angle of attack.
Be
careful not to cut too fast and don't be afraid to stop and check your work as
you proceed. You'll want to stop the back cut about 2 inches from the face
notch's inner angle.
The
tree should begin to topple on its own in the direction of the fall path. Never
turn your back on the falling tree.
Back
quickly away to a distance of 20 feet from it. Position yourself behind a
standing tree if possible to protect yourself from projectiles and debris.
Cut
Your Tree Into Logs
Once
you've felled the tree, you'll want to remove its limbs and cut them into logs.
This is called "limbing."
You'll
also need to saw the trunk into manageable sections that you can chop up or
haul off. This is called "bucking."
Before
you make a cut, though, you must make sure the downed tree is stable.
Otherwise, the tree could shift as you're cutting or even roll on top of you,
creating the risk of serious injury.
If
the tree is not stable, use wedges or chocks to secure it first. Remember also
that bigger limbs are heavy and can fall on you as you cut them.
Start
with the topmost branches and work your way back along the tree toward the
base. Stand on the uphill side of each limb as you cut so that they will fall
away from you.
Once
you've limbed the tree and cleared the debris, you're ready to begin bucking.
Again, start at the top of the tree and work your way toward the base, always
away from the fall path of each section of the trunk.
The
length of each section will depend on where this wood will end up. If you're
planning to sell the wood to a lumber mill, you'll want to cut the trunk into
4-foot lengths.
If
you're planning to use the wood to heat your home, cut 1- or 2-foot sections
that you can later divide into smaller portions.
Steve Nix
Forestry Expert
Education
B.S., Forest Resource
Management, University of Georgia
Introduction
Worked for a forestry
consulting company
Managed a county forestry and
wildfire program
Wrote about forest resources
as an analyst for the state of Alabama
Wrote U.S. Forest Service
technical reports
Earned numerous certifications
in forest resource management
Experience
Steve Nix is a former writer
for ThoughtCo who contributed articles about forestry for more than 19 years.
Steve researched, analyzed and wrote about forest resources in the southern
United States during nearly 20 years as a forest resources analyst for the
state of Alabama. His experience includes working with a private forestry
consulting company and managing county forestry and wildfire program in
Randolph County, Alabama.
Steve earned certificates in
several forestry specialization areas, including Conservation Law Enforcement,
Forest Wildlands Burning, and Forest Pesticide Application. Nix was also an
Alabama Registered Forester and is a member of the Society of American
Foresters. His ThoughtCo articles and data appear in numerous newspapers,
natural resource magazines, and in U.S. Forest Service technical reports.
Education
Steve Nix holds a bachelor's
degree in Forest Resource Management from the University of Georgia.
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