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Engine Power Loss
5 Signs Your Engine Is Losing Power
BY NICHOLAS GERBIS
Do
you have the sinking feeling that the horses under your hood have turned into
ponies?
Does
your four-banger feel more like a three-and-a-half-banger these days? If so,
you might have a power problem.
Back
when carburetors were king and fuel pumps were mechanical, power loss
usually came down to vapor lock or a clogged fuel filter [source: Goms].
Today's
intricate fuel systems have largely conquered the former if not the latter.
Even so, all that complexity brings with it a slew of potential failure points.
The
same goes for the car's air intake and exhaust systems, particularly since
catalytic converters became standard equipment in the late 1970s [source: Newman].
In
many ways, though, the old rules still apply. Like your own body, every car
needs fuel to burn and air to breathe. Your vehicle doesn't like running in
high altitudes with a potato crammed up its tailpipe any more than you would
(but, hey, to each his own).
If
only nailing down the causes of power loss were as simple as a tuber in the
tailpipe, we wouldn't make such a hash out of diagnosing them.
But
identifying a power problem can try the patience of a saint, and doubly so when
the drop in oomph occurs intermittently, virtually guaranteeing that your
mechanic won't be able to reproduce it.
Thankfully,
there are some clear signs to look for.
5 The Old Lead Foot, Dead Foot
If your car loses power when you put the pedal to the
metal, odds are good that a fuel system malfunction is preventing your engine
from drawing the extra go-juice it needs to accelerate.
You
could be looking at a clogged injector, leaking fuel line, gummed-up filter or
kaput fuel pump [source: Salem].
A
fuel injector sprays fuel into the cylinder, where it mixes with air and
ignites during compression, generating the explosion that drives the piston.
The
fuel line is simply a hose or pipe that carries fuel from the tank to the
engine. The fuel pump does the pushing, and the filter keeps out impurities.
With
the necessary knack and the proper tools, you can replace a fuel line yourself,
but other problems might take a bit more effort and equipment.
Before
2006, fuel filters were do-it-yourselv jobs, but manufacturers are increasingly
placing their filters inside of their vehicle's fuel tanks [source: AGCO].
Whatever
you decide, remember that fuel punishes those who take it lightly. Make sure
you have the right diagnosis, tools and know-how before diving in.
4 Sending Up Smoke Signals
A backfiring or smoking exhaust can indicate either
too much fuel or too little spark, both of which can bring about power loss.
A
backfire occurs when the fuel-air mixture does not fully ignite in the
combustion chamber, but instead pops off elsewhere in the system. Both fuel-air
ratio problems and electrical issues can trigger firing foul-ups [sources: Bosch; Salem].
Spark
plugs covered with engine oil, ash or other deposits will misfire, as will
plugs with partially melted electrodes.
Black
smoke from your tailpipe might point to spark problems, which can damage your
engine, so check them as soon as possible [sources: Bosch; Salem].
Black
smoke could also mean that your fuel-air mixture is too gasoline-rich. Time for
an adjustment. And if you pop the hood and your engine reeks excessively of eau de Esso, do not try to start it. It's
time for a tow [sources: Salem; Sclar].
Conversely,
backfiring without black smoke could indicate too little fuel in the mix [source: Salem].
We'll
discuss that, too.
3 Whole Lotta Shakin' Goin' On
While idling at a stop light, does your engine tremble
harder than a San Andreas paint mixer?
Does
it send tremors through the steering wheel or into the rest of the vehicle,
resulting in a noticeable loss of power? If so, misfiring cylinders could be to
blame -- again [sources: B&B; O'Reilly].
If
a misfire is your culprit, other signs will soon present themselves. These
might include trouble starting, stalling during idle (especially if accessories
like the air conditioning, headlights and/or defroster are running) and bad gas
mileage. The hydrocarbons choking your exhaust could also botch your annual
emissions test [sources: B&B; O'Reilly].
Engines
typically misfire for three reasons: spark loss, lost compression or a
way-out-of-whack air-to-fuel ratio.
Bad
spark plugs, fouled-up plug wires or a cracked distributor cap can cause spark
loss, while compression loss -- in which too much of the air-fuel mixture flees
a cylinder before going bang -- commonly arises from a leaky exhaust valve or a
blown head gasket [sources: B&B; O'Reilly].
An
air-fuel mix that is too thin to burn could mean a gunked-up fuel injector, an
air leak, a weak fuel pump, a choked-off filter or a compromised pressure
regulator. It's also possible, though less common, for the mix to be too rich
(which we mentioned before), but this will tend to affect all the cylinders,
not just one [sources: B&B; O'Reilly].
A
diagnostic scanner can pick out the misbehaving cylinder, but that's just the
first step in figuring out what's wrong [source: O'Reilly].
Once
you've narrowed down the problem, decide if it's something you feel comfortable
tackling yourself.
2 Disagreeably Inclined
Does your vehicle cut out or struggle up an incline?
Such behavior often signifies a clogged fuel filter.
As
the filter eliminates gunk from your fuel, it grows gradually dirty, and the
fuel pump must work harder to shove fuel through it.
In
high-demand circumstances, such as driving up a hill or putting the hammer
down, it might not be able to deliver enough gas to get the job done. Get your
car checked out with a fuel pressure test or digital scope [sources: AGCO; Big O].
Don't
just replace the filter -- take a closer look at what's blocking it up,
just in case the clog is a symptom of another issue, such as fuel contamination
or a buildup of rust in the tank [source: AGCO].
1 Hey, Look at All the Pretty Lights ...
A number of the power loss-related problems
we just listed will cause your malfunction indicator lamp, aka the check engine
light, to switch on. Heed it.
Many
of the issues it detects relate to power loss -- including problems with the
catalytic converter, the mass airflow sensor, the O2 sensor or the spark plug wires. More important,
small problems often hint at larger ones [sources: Consumer Reports; Reed].
In
addition to the glitches already cited, your car's MIL could point to a bad
positive crankcase ventilation valve. The PCV valve is part of your emissions
control system.
When
it sticks open, too much air pours into your engine; when contaminants gum it
up, your engine suffocates. Fortunately, the valve is fairly easy to clean or
replace [source: Sclar].
If
you're working on a 1996 model vehicle or later, you can buy a cheap trouble
code reader that will tell you what the MIL means, possibly saving you a trip
to the mechanic -- or at least arming you with more data before you haul in
your vehicle [sources: Consumer Reports; Reed].
Lastly,
if none of these five signs are occurring for you but you're certain you're
losing power, check your catalytic converter.
Although
most converters are designed to last a vehicle's lifetime, they can eventually
fail or plug up, suffocating the engine by preventing fouled air from being
expelled through the exhaust [sources: Salem; Sclar].
Author's Note: 5 Signs Your Engine Is Losing Power
Power loss in a car is a dismal
experience.
For
the sentimental, it feels like a trusty horse or boon companion is knocking at
death's door; for everyone else, it produces a pang in the pocketbook -- at least
until it's diagnosed.
That's
the thing about power loss: It could point to some minor, easily fixed issue,
or it could stem from a real whopper of a problem. Hopefully, the information
in this article will help you separate one from the other.
Nicholas Gerbis, Contributing Writer
Nicholas Gerbis is an independent science journalist, editor and teacher. He earned his Master of Science degree in geography (climatology) from University of Delaware and a Master of Mass Communication degree (journalism) from the Walter Cronkite School at Arizona State University. He is currently an adjunct professor at University of Wisconsin-Eau Claire, where he teaches courses on science history and science fiction.
Nicholas Gerbis is an independent science journalist, editor and teacher. He earned his Master of Science degree in geography (climatology) from University of Delaware and a Master of Mass Communication degree (journalism) from the Walter Cronkite School at Arizona State University. He is currently an adjunct professor at University of Wisconsin-Eau Claire, where he teaches courses on science history and science fiction.
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