KNOTS FOR RAPPELLING - Rappelling is one of the most dangerous aspects of climbing. More accidents occur rappelling than any other climbing activity except lead climbing. When you’re rappelling off a cliff, you’re relying solely on your equipment — on your rope, on your rappel device, on your harness, and on the anchors that your rope is threaded through. Besides having perfect bombproof anchors, you need to tie your ropes together with a strong knot that will support your weight while rappelling and won’t come untied. Double Figure-8 Fisherman’s Knot - This knot, the usual way to tie rappel ropes together, is the strongest of the bunch and, if properly tied, will not come undone. It’s also easy to visually check to make sure it is properly tied. It’s usually not difficult to untie after being weighted. This is the best knot to tie ropes of unequal diameters, that is a thin rope and thick rope, together. The knot’s biggest disadvantage is its bulk, so the chances that it might jam in a crack while you’re pulling the rappel ropes are increased. Square Fisherman’s Knot - A lot of climbers like this knot because it’s easy to tie and the easiest of these four knots to untie. It’s basically just a square knot backed up with double fisherman’s knots on either side. Double Overhand Knot - This knot, sometimes called the “European Death Knot,” has gained popularity and is often used to tie ropes together. It is the fastest and easiest of these four knots to tie and has the least bulk, which makes it less likely to snag and stick your rope. Double Fisherman’s Knot - This is the traditional knot to tie two ropes together but has generally fallen out of favor for the above knots.

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4 Knots for Rappelling

The Best Knots to Tie Rappel Ropes Together

By Stewart Green

If you’re out climbing and need to rappel, either from the top of the route you just climbed or to bail off before a thunderstorm moves in, then you often need to tie two ropes together to get down.

Double rope rappels get you down faster and farther, especially if you are using two 200-foot (60-meter) ropes, so you can get out of danger from lightning and also so you leave less gear for rappel anchors at each stance or ledge if there are no fixed anchors.

Rappelling is Dangerous

Rappelling is one of the most dangerous aspects of climbing. More accidents occur rappelling than any other climbing activity except lead climbing.

When you’re rappelling off a cliff, you’re relying solely on your equipment — on your rope, on your rappel device, on your harness, and on the anchors that your rope is threaded through.

Besides having perfect bombproof anchors, you need to tie your ropes together with a strong knot that will support your weight while rappelling and won’t come untied.

4 Best Knots for Rappel Ropes

The following four best knots are the best ones for tying your rappel ropes together:

1.    Double Figure-8 Fisherman’s Knot - This knot, the usual way to tie rappel ropes together, is the strongest of the bunch and, if properly tied, will not come undone.

It’s also easy to visually check to make sure it is properly tied. It’s usually not difficult to untie after being weighted.

This is the best knot to tie ropes of unequal diameters, that is a thin rope and thick rope, together.

The knot’s biggest disadvantage is its bulk, so the chances that it might jam in a crack while you’re pulling the rappel ropes are increased.

2.    Square Fisherman’s Knot - A lot of climbers like this knot because it’s easy to tie and the easiest of these four knots to untie.

It’s basically just a square knot backed up with double fisherman’s knots on either side.

If you use this knot, always use the backup knots or risk it coming untied. A square knot alone is never a good knot for rappelling or any other climbing purpose.

3.    Double Overhand Knot - This knot, sometimes called the “European Death Knot,” has gained popularity and is often used to tie ropes together.

It is the fastest and easiest of these four knots to tie and has the least bulk, which makes it less likely to snag and stick your rope.

Do not use this knot with ropes of varying diameters, since at least one fatal accident has occurred from it coming untied.

    Alternatively, you can tie a double figure-8 knot instead of the overhand knot, although testing at Black Diamond’s lab in Salt Lake City indicates that the double overhand is stronger than the double figure-8.

4.    Double Fisherman’s Knot This is the traditional knot to tie two ropes together but has generally fallen out of favor for the above knots.

It can be difficult to check visually and is often difficult to untie after being weighted, particularly if the ropes are wet.

This knot is best used for tying thin pieces of accessory cord like Spectra together for anchors or slinging nuts like Hexentrics.

Know the Knots Before Using Them

These four knots are all strong and safe, but they must, of course, be tied correctly.

Learn to tie these knots on the ground or at home and know them backward and forwards before you attempt to tie them on a climb at the rappel anchors — your life depends on the knot being properly tied.

All these knots, except the double overhand knot, are backed up with fisherman’s knots for safety on either side.

Use a Stopper Knot

Also when you’re rappelling, always tie a stopper knot, which is a double fisherman’s knot, overhand knot, or figure-8 knot, at the ends of both ropes so that you or your partner won’t rappel off the loose ends of the rope.

Pick One Knot and Use It

It’s best to pick one knot that you like and just use it every time you tie rappel ropes together.

If you use one knot for rappelling, you become intimately familiar with that knot — you know how to tie it; you know how to untie it; you know how much of a tail to leave at each end to tie the fisherman’s backup knots.

I have always used the Double Figure-8 Fisherman’s Knot because it feels like the safest knot to me.

I like to feel totally secure when I’m rappelling, particularly if it’s a scary rappel off a slender desert spire or down a big wall.

Experiment at a small crag and decide which rappel knot is right for you.

Stewart Green

Stewart Green on the summit of Gray Rock at the Garden of the Gods in Colorado.

Introduction

Author of more than 20 books about hiking and rock climbing

Senior rock climbing guide for Front Range Climbing Co. in Colorado

Worked with the Colorado Department of Parks to solve climbing problems

Red Rock Canyon Open Space and Garden of the Gods committee member

Experience

Stewart M. Green is a former writer for ThoughtCo who wrote articles about rock climbing for more than eight years. Stewart is an expert climber and co-owns Front Range Climbing Company where he acts as the senior rock climbing guide in the mountains of Colorado and Utah. Stewart started writing about and photographing the outdoors around 1977, landing his first job with Springs Magazine in 1979. Since that time, his writing and photography appeared in numerous books and websites. Stewart's experience includes working as a digital editor for Alpinist.com where he wrote about and photographed some of the most famous climbers in the world.

Stewart is a prolific writer. His work appears on many websites and magazines which target the outdoor enthusiast audience. He has more than 20 books to his credit about climbing and hiking. Stewart worked with the Colorado Springs Department of Parks, Recreation, and Cultural Services to solve problems with rock climbing in city parks. He was a member of the committees for both the Red Rock Canyon Open Space project and the Garden of the Gods project.

Education

Stewart M. Green earned a Master of Fine Arts (MFA) in Creative Nonfiction Writing from Goucher College in 2007. He also holds a Bachelor Arts (B.A.) in Anthropology from the University of Colorado–Colorado Springs.

Awards and Publications

2011 Golden Quill Award in Lifetime Achievement, Pikes Peak Library District

Best Climbs Phoenix, Arizona: The Best Sport and Trad Routes in the Area (Falcon Guides, 2017)

Rock Climbing New England: A Guide to More Than 900 Routes (Falcon Guides, 2015)

Rock Climbing Utah 2nd Edition (Falcon Guides, 2012)

Best Climbs Denver and Boulder: Over 200 Of The Best Routes In The Area (Falcon Guides, 2011)

Best Climbs Moab: Over 140 Of The Best Routes In The Area (Falcon Guides, 2011)

Rock Climbing Colorado, 2nd: A Guide to More Than 1,800 Routes (Falcon Guides, 2010)

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https://www.thoughtco.com/knots-for-rappelling-755662

Stewart Green on the summit of Gray Rock at the Garden of the Gods in Colorado.